Travelling Argentinan Patagonia: itinerary for an independent solo trip

Perito MorenoEl Calafate

Perito Moreno

It is quite possible to do this trip independently, but don’t expect it to be significantly cheaper than organised tours. I did look at a few of the tour companies (companies like Intrepid who offer tours with more of an independent feel to them), but dismissed them as too expensive. However Patagonia is expensive (Argentina generally isn’t cheap).

This way I did get to pick and choose what I wanted to do though, rather than follow somebody else’s itinerary.

I still haven’t calculated the exact cost of the three-week trip (in that way that people don’t open bank statements if they know they are in debt; I don’t want to face it). However prices are rising so fast in Argentina right now that any guide is likely to be out of date with prices within a short time anyway.

Finding budget accommodation was often a bit of an challenge.  I stayed in hostels but camping would get the cost down further if you’re ok with that, however this body does not camp anymore.

I was also carrying more luggage than I would have liked, because this is a small part of a much longer trip. If I were doing this again I would make it a circular tour out of Buenos Aires and leave my wheelie bag behind.

Anyway here’s my itinerary for three weeks between Buenos Aires and Santiago, Chile plus (most importantly) what I’d do differently now I know.

First stop: Puerto Madryn (post here).


A Puerto Madryn penguin

22 hours from Buenos Aires on a bus, or you can get flights if you want to save time. Must-sees are the penguins, whales, sea lions and wildlife generally (depends on the time of year what is available). I spent 5 days here; 4-5 days is probably about right to see the main things; you could do it in 3 if you’re really organised. Good seafood restaurants too, plus a beach.

2. Bariloche (post here) ‘the Switzerland of Argentina’.



Quite do-able with an overnight bus from Puerto Madryn.  It has some great hiking opportunities, lakes and boat trips. I spent 6 days here. If I were doing it again I would stay less time here, maybe just 2 nights, and then move on to El Bolson for the rest of the time.

3.  El Bolson (post here)


El Bolson is a more laid back backpacker-friendly place an hour or so away from Bariloche. Same great views and less of the touristy stuff.

4.  Next stop : El Calafate (post here).


Perito Moreno

I flew in because I couldn’t face another long bus journey; it is a long way by road.   I spent 4 days here; the high cost of accommodation did limit me somewhat.  It makes a great base for exploring the glacier park.


El Chalten

5. El Chalten

If I were doing this trip again I would definitely stop off at El Chalten for 2-3 days next. It is a small town with a handful of hostels, mainly aimed at the backpacking/hiking community.  I did it as a day trip from El Calafate, but it was a long day and I would rather have stayed overnight and enjoyed some more of the walks the next day.

6.  Ushuaia

For completists you can then go on to Ushuaia, ‘the end of the world’. I opted not to do this, as I had already spent way too much money and Ushuaia is not cheap. Transport costs and hotels there (there didn’t seem to be too many budget options) plus the cost of food that has to be shipped all that way would have easily added another $500-700 onto my budget. It’s a long way and certainly at this point I couldn’t face another long bus journey.  It is mostly a stopping off point for cruises to Antartica, however I do understand the urge to complete the circuit and not leave one thing undone.

Although there was nothing there I particularly wanted to see, I did feel disappointed with myself afterwards, for not spending the money and making the extra bit of effort.

7. Mendoza


Pink fountain in Mendoza

I spent the final 4 days of this 3-week trip in Mendoza before taking the picturesque bus journey from Mendoza into Santiago.


8.  Uspallata

If I were doing it again I would tag a final two days on at Uspallata, which is en route for Santiago. I took a day trip around there travelling from Mendoza and there was so much else I could have done, from hiking the Aconcagua park or rafting in the nearby rivers. You can, like me, do this on day trips from Mendoza, but Uspallata has some nice little hostals/b&bs of its own, and when you’ve had enough you are right on the bus route to Santiago.

24 replies »

  1. Hello Sarah. I think you are having a blast and that is all that matters. I am really enjoying ‘our’ trip around South America and it is showing me a part of the world that I never thought I would be interested in. However, still not sure it is for me, all that meat etc lol. But that aside I am fascinated with your blog and photos and let’s Skype again soon. Safe travels my friend xx

    • Yes I go up and down on it too. We’ve been without internet for past 36 hours, so I’ve been a real grump, but yes let’s chat again soon.

  2. We can’t wait to visit Patagonia, looks like you had an awesome trip!

    • I would like to have stayed longer but it was just too expensive, so really jut trying to cram in as much as possible in a short time

  3. I’m not sure when will I be able to travel to Argentina but it looks like a beautiful country to visit. But if ever I go there, I would make sure to have enough money to check out the spots that you mentioned.

  4. Sounds like you had an awesome trip! That part of the world is still a “some day” place for me, but it’s great to get some ideas on what to do when I do get there.

  5. I agree with you about the cost of Argentina, Patagonia and I’d throw Chile in there too. We too are too old to camp, but we are keen hikers. El Chalten was a highlight for the hiking, If you hike, I’d definitely go. Also from El Calafate you can bus to Pueto Natales where you can hike in Torres Del Paine (Chile) and it is a short bus ride, not a long 22 hour one! There is lots of information about Patagonia on or site that might help your readers if they are planning a trip.

    • Thank you; yes I was just trying to get everything in one place really from the trip. There were places I would stay longer if I were planning it again.
      I didn’t get to Torres del Paine, but you can’t do everything and I’d already taken more than 3 weeks and spent something like double my original budget

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